Kool-aid dying is an easy, extremely cost-effective, non-toxic dye method for the dying of protein fibers (think wool, alpaca, silk, etc.). It does not require a mordant. I don't know what a mordant is, but I don't care, because I don't need one, anyway.
There are variations on the Kool-aid dying technique. I prefer, what seems to me, the simplest way.
First, gather the "ingredients" for your dying experience. I am using two packets of unsweetened, dry Kool-aid drink powder to one 50g ball of 100%, 8-ply wool in a light color. Also worth noting before we begin, do not use aluminum or cast iron in the dying process.

I have not experimented with overdying darker shades. Yet. I have also not tried using less Kool-aid, although obviously this would give a lighter shade. I have tried using three packets of Kool-aid to 50g yarn, and the result was, predictably, a more saturated color.
Also, a word on color choices. Kool-aid makes a variety of different colors, and the mixing and blending of these colors can produce a fairly wide spectrum. I haven't had much of a chance to experiment with the available colors because I have to purchase imported Kool-aid. They don't make it over here. It's expensive. I am poor. LOL
What I am trying to say in the above two paragraphs is: Experiment as you are able. 
I like to wrap my yarn into a skein. I *think* that's what they call it. In order to do this, I carefully wrap it around my forearm, kind of from my hand, around my elbow...well, I should have taken a photo. Anyway, it ends up looking like...
this.
I have loosely tied this in four places, using a synthetic yarn that will not absorb any of the dye.
Now, I am going to add a squirt of detergent to a bowl full of coolish-to-warmish water, swish it around, and plunge my skein of yarn into it. Here it will sit and soak for a while. This helps soften the fibers and prepares the yarn to accept the dye.

Now, I have transferred the yarn to coolish-to-warmish water in a stainless steel pot. Actually, don't tell anyone, but I just tipped the whole lot, water and all, straight into the pot. Next time I will forget about the blue bowl and do the soaking in the pot, then I won't have to wash the stupid bowl. 
And, as I am sure you can see, I have sprinkled the contents of one packet of (from memory) orange-flavored Kool-aid mix into the pot. Then (and I didn't think you'd need a photo of this) I sprinkled the contents of one packet of (again, from memory) pineapple Kool-aid mix into the pot. Or, it could have been the other way around. I honestly don't remember. 

Now stir like you've never stirred before!!!
OK it really wasn't all as frantic as this photo would have you believe. I like natural lighting, which requires a slow shutter speed sometimes.

Place the pot onto the stove, and turn the stove on low.
Now, the next several photos here were taken at five-minute intervals, to give you some indication of how things look as the water slowly heats up, and the wool accepts the dye. You will notice that the water gradually becomes paler, and the yarn becomes darker.
        
And then, it will disappear altogether!
I joke.
But, you can see how all the dye has now been absorbed by the wool, and there is none left in the water!
Just as you let the wool heat up gradually, let your dyed wool cool gradually, too. It is my understanding that sudden changes of temperature can shock the wool fibers and cause the wool to fuzz up or felt. I usually let mine sit in the pot for a while (having turned the heat off, once the wool has absorbed all the dye), and then transfer it to that stupid bowl and let it continue to cool.
Once it is cool, rinse it under cool running water, then gently squeeze out as much water as you can, without roughing things up too much. Let it air dry.

And there, THERE, you have it!
Roll it into a ball and then go make it some buddies! 

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