My dad built me a worm bed. I have it in my bunny barn under the cages. I still need to buy the worms for it.
HOW TO MAKE and MAINTAIN A WORM BIN
http://www.wormman.com/worm_bin_plans.cfm
Red worms can survive a wide range of temperatures except freezing and temps above 82 degrees. RED WORMS are at their most productive when the worm bin is at 55 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Worms need to breathe so make sure you have plenty of air holes. Especially if you are using a rubber maid container for a bin.
Red worms need moisture but not to much. You should be able to squeeze a couple of drops from the bedding but not a stream.
Here's a list of what you'll need: 2 pieces 5/8" CDX plywood (35-5/8" x 12") *CDX is a special type of wood, ask your parents 2 pieces 5/8" CDX plywood (23-3/8" x 12") 1 piece 5/8" CDX plywood (24" x 36") 38 2" ardox nails, hammer, drill with 1/2" bit. Nail the sides together with four to six nails per side, and then nail the bottom panel on using five to seven nails per side. Then get out the drill and make 12 half-inch holes in the bottom. That's so that air can get in and water can get out. You'll also have to raise the bin off the floor so that air can circulate up through them.
BEDDING:
bedding can be shredded cardboard or newspapers and old leaves. We use peat moss or leaves. Fill your bin to the top with the bedding. Add some dirt. Like chickens, worms have gizzards that help them grind up all that organic matter you are feeding them. Only use a couple of hands full of dirt.
The basic formula for the amount of worms you will need for your bin is two pounds of worms for every one pound of organic waste per week. (a 2:1 ratio). It takes about 1,000-1,500 worms to make a pound.
http://www.wormman.com/redworms.htm
When you receive your worms please remember the following.
We ship them in bedding that is on the dry side, so please add water to the bedding right away.
Place the worms into their new home. Use moist, but not wet, peat moss. Do not feed the worms for the first three days. That will allow them to eat the peat, and to acclimate to the new bedding.
Place a night light over the beds or bins for three of four days to stop the worms from crawling out of the bin. Keep the lids off and the lights on. After three days the worms should settle in, and you should be able to turn the lights off. If you are keeping worms outside always have lights on when it rains. The worms like to travel when it rains.
If you are looking to compost with Red Worms you will want to know how many worms it will take to eat your garbage. Generally it takes 2000 worms to eat one pound of garbage per week. It is important to remember that the worms will multiply at a pretty good rate. 1000 worms under proper conditions can turn into 1 million capsules, and worms in a year.
The pH of the worm bed should be approximately 6.0 to 7.0, but more toward the high side. For more on pH click here. You can get a good chemical or meter type soil test kit HERE. Red Worms are great worms. To keep the pH at around 7 you will need powdered limestone. The type you will need is Calcium Carbonate, or agricultural lime stone. The hydrated lime, and pellet lime will burn the worms, and will kill them.
Red Worms. cannot be placed directly into a garden to enrich soil. Red Worms require constant moisture, and organic matter. They will die in a matter of minutes in a garden or lawn. It takes about 6 to 8 weeks for Red Worms to go from capsule to breeder. Each capsule contains between 4 and 20 worms.
Red worms require constant moisture, and food. The food that red worms eat consists of decaying vegetables, food scraps, paper, and other types of organic material. Red worms are not good for use in aerating gardens, or lawns. Red worms are indigenous to manure piles, and need a constant supply of food and moisture to survive. This doesn't mean that red worms are not good for the garden. They are great! It means that you will have to culture the worms in a pit or bed, and then move the castings to the garden, flower pot, or lawn.
Here are some of the best types of food for Red worms:
1. Rabbit manure
2. Manure ( all types, but poultry manure should be allowed to age about 6 months to a year before use.)
3. Food scraps.
4. Shredded cardboard and newspaper.
5. Powdered Worm Food. Purina make a worm food called "Worm Chow".
All of the above feed will work well, as long as you watch for heat that can come from decaying matter, pH, and moisture. Mix your bedding a few days before you add the worms so that your bedding will be past the heating stage when you add your worms. Some bedding has a tendency to heat when bacteria begins to break it down. By leaving it for a few days after adding water the bedding should be ready for the worms.
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