Posted in Homestead Barnyard

Your at the point where you have the right breeding stock, cages and equipment.  Your happy bunnies are doing fine nibbling on there pellets.  Time to increase your stock.  Its breeding time.  Simple right?  Many of us have listened to the "ol timers' say "breed like rabbits"........Well this is partially true.  There are a few things to take into consideration.  First is age.   Depending on the breed size of the rabbit you have at what age you can breed.  For example....Small breeds can breed at 5 months, medium breeds at 6 months and Giants at 8 months.  My stocks average breeding age is 6 months. The next thing to consider is weight.  Fat rabbits just don't breed well.  Adjust there food to make them trim and healthy, suitable for breeding.  Bucks become extremely lazy if overweight and does have a harder time conceiving.  Check for good health and fur.  Make sure the does vulva is dark in color (reddish-purple) and the bucks testicles should be fully descended and full.  Now that you've made sure everything is in perfect working order, take the doe to the buck.  Important not to do it the other way around.  Do not leave them--it shouldn't take long.  There may be some chasing and fur pulling at first.  Don't be too concerned.  The buck should mount the doe.  You know you have a successful breed when the buck falls over on his side or goes stiff and falls on his back.  Until this happens, the buck has not been successful.  It will only take once for you to understand what I am talking about.  If you are thinking,  Did it work?, chances are it did not.  It is unmistakable.  If you had a successful session, remove the doe back to her cage.  Be careful, if your rabbit is ever going to bite you, now will be when it happens.  What if nothing happens?  They are either not interested or just chase each other around unsuccessfully.  This happens with new breeders sometimes.  They just don't get it yet.  What I do is put their cages next to each other.  Give them some close time and try again the next day.  This usually works.  If not then I put the doe with another buck.  It is reported that female rabbits are fertile 365 days a year.  This is probably true but I have found that my rates of succesful breeding are greatly increased if I rebreed the doe 8-12 hours after the original breeding time.  So I select the pairs to breed in the morning and return that evening and rebreed the pairs again.  I cannot say how important this is!  Your doe will usually be so much more receptive to the buck at this time.  She will often position herself for breeding without a fight. 

Ok now we are pregnant, right?  Mostly.  There are methods to check.  Some use the palpation method.  Place the doe on a flat surface holding her by the scruff of the neck (10 days into breeding) and reach the other hand under her belly feeling around gently for marbles (babies).  This takes some practice.  Some breeders put the doe back in with the buck at 10 days for a test breed. (I do not do this)  If the doe is pregnant she will growl and strongly resist the buck.  Another way is to weigh the doe. Her weight will increase slightly-up to a pound.  The gestation period of rabbits is 28-34 days.  My rabbits are 31 days exactly.  On the 27th day I put in a nest box and plenty of straw.  The doe will begin to build a nest.  You know the time is close when you see your doe walking around with a mouthfull of straw.(Its very cute!)  On the day the litter is to be born the doe will pull fur from her underside for the youngs nest.  She will pull more to cover them after she delivers.  If you do not see signs that the doe is making a nest this should be your first signal that she might not be a good doe.  This is the tragic part of breeding rabbits.  Some does just don't seem to know what to do.  You can assist by placing fur that you have pulled or saved to cover the young.  In most cases it is extremely difficult to get the timing close enough to save the new kits.  Delivery does not take long, but if you catch the delivery and the doe is delivering in an unprepared nest or cage floor you can adopt the kits to another doe who has room for them.  That is why I always breed at least 2 does together-an experienced doe and a new doe.  As long as they are close in age the other doe should accept the adopted kits without trouble.  Just because the new doe is not a good mommy the first time doesn't mean she will repeat this the next breeding.  I usually give my does two attempts at delivering before they are retired.  I have found that after two failures the likelyhood that they will improve is not high enough to risk another breeding.

In about 10 days the litter will open their eyes and begin to come out of the box.  This is a fun time!  They will be wobbly at first.  Keep a close eye on them now.  Keeping them from harms way.  I usually leave the nest box in until they are a month old.  It depends on the litter size when I wean them from there mother.  Usually 7-8 weeks old.  They should be eating good and appear to be in good health.  You'll know when its time.  Then the whole cycle starts over again.  I hope this has been helpful to someone!  Blessings>faithfarm

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

Good Morning!  We are going to discuss one of the more controversial topics in raising rabbits---What to feed them.  There is many ways to go about this and many opinions about how to do this as well.  For me....I try to make things as simple and uncomplicated as possible.  When your rabbitry gets large, time is precious and maintaining health in your rabbits is of upmost importance.   Sick rabbits take time and we all have plenty to do in our day!  We want healthy rabbits producing healthy meat for our table and we want to do this in the most time effecient way, right?  SO with all that in mind I am going to share with you how I handle feeding my rabbits.  I have not had to deal with sickness and my rabbits are healthy well producing stock.  Every morning I feed a 17% rabbit pellet via feeder and a handful of alfalfa hay.  I provide all the clean fresh water the rabbits can drink and that's it folks-nothing more.  I return in the evening and make sure the rabbits have plenty of fresh water to make it through the night.  I also check to make sure there is not pellets left over in there feeder and that each animal looks healthy and happy.  You will easily be able to determine how much pellet each stage of rabbit needs by their weight.  If a rabbit looks too fat-cut back on the pellet.  Fat rabbits don't breed well.  Males get too lazy and it complicates delivery on the does.  Now there is one exception to the rule---When a doe delivers her kits--I offer her a little tid-bit for energy.  Usually a little slice of apple.  This makes her happy and gives her the energy she needs.  It also allows you to examine the kits and remove any dead or waste stuff from the nest box.  I also increase the feed and hay while a doe is nursing.  It takes alot to nurse, so be prepared to double her intake.  Many people also give race horse oats in a seperate self feeder to a doe with a new litter.  I think this is probably a fine idea, it is just one I have never implimented.  I do not feed my rabbits garden scraps or fresh greens.  One must be careful when introducing new food stuffs to rabbits.  I have seen many raisers loose rabbits from diarrhea.  If your rabbit is not eating well the first thing you should check is its water.  Rabbits will not eat without water  available.  If you are using a water valve system, check the valves for clogs or sticking.  Clean your water system and examine the stool for any signs of distress or illness.  Droppings should be large and round--well formed.  Not clumping.  *(We will go into health issues later.)  Basically when it comes to feeding your rabbits be consistant and uncomplicated.  I hope this has helped!  Blessings>faithfarm

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

Thank you for joining me at Homestead Barnyard.  Today we are going to talk about how to house your rabbits.  The first thing to consider is what kind of living quarters a rabbit needs.  They must be clean and offer plenty of light.  They need plenty of ventilation but protected from winds and drafts.  They need to be kept dry and do not tolerate extreme heat well.  Rabbits by nature can take the cold.  They do not need alot of space but enough to rear a family comfortably.  Having damp or wet floors in your cage is like having a first class ticket to trouble.  Your rabbits need to be secure from preditors and escaping.  Last but not least,  it needs to be easy to maintain for you-the rabbit owner--you need to be able to clean it easily, feed and water with ease, and you need to be able to quickly examine your stock.  A careful eye will allow you to see trouble early.  Wow--sounds complicated right?  Its not.  Its actually easy and inexpensive.  The all wire hutch is easy to build or buy and is considered the best way to raise rabbits today.  They are mostly self cleaning--droppings and urine fall to the ground or pan below.  An occasional scrub with a brush and disinfectant is all that is required.  Feeders and waterers can be mounted from the outside.  Great ventilation and secure from preditors and escapes.  Those things taken care of, all you need now is to decide where you want to keep them.  If you have an old shed or dry barn to hang them in-then all is taken care of.  Safe and dry.  If you are like many people starting out you may want to keep them outside at first.  There are many easy plans for ouside shelters that protect from wind and rain.  Some are as simple as a lean-to addition on an already existing building.  Just remember when you are building your shelter that they need a cool/dry place in the summer and dry/wind free area in the winter.  My first shelter was portable so I could move it under a tree in the breeze in the summer and face it blocking the cold north wind in the winter.  You may want to consider smaller multiple shelters if this is how you plan on doing it.  The easiest by far is to hang the cages in an existing structure. 

We build our own hutches here.  I have found that to be the most inexpensive route.  If I can build one, anyone can.  They are very simple.  All you need is wire, wire cutters, and C-rings or J-clips (found at any farm store).  The cage should be 18 inches high and have a floor space of 2 1/2 to 3 feet.  The wire on the bottom should be big enough to let droppings fall through but easy enough for baby rabbits to walk on.  (1 X 1/2 mesh) The smaller wire is also easier on adult rabbits feet.  The side wire should be a welded 14-gage galvanized wire with 1 inch by 2 inch squares.  Just cut your wire to length and clip together to form a rectangle.  Use your wire cutters to make an opening for the door.  Usually a foot square or a little larger depending on your breeding box size.  Cut another piece of wire one inch larger all around than the opening (your door).  Important:  It must be 1 inch larger than the door opening you cut.  Hinge your door using the J-clamps.  Most people prefer  a door hinged at the top that swings up an into the cage.  I have done mine both ways...opening out and opening in.  Its your preference.  Thats it--Simple.  If you have any questions regarding any part of what I have touched on today--just let me know.  I will be more than glad to "talk rabbit".  Blessings>faithfarm

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

For today we are going to take it from making the decision that raising meat rabbits is right for you.  There are a few more things to think about at this point.

1.  Decide on what breed of rabbit you are going to raise. 

There are many kinds of rabbits to choose from.  The most popular rabbit for meat purposes in America are the New Zealand Whites and the Californian.  They have white pelts (which you could sell).  They also have a good feed conversion, fertility rate, and litter size.  They also have fine bones and higher meat ratio.  Personally I like the New Zealand Whites. 

2.  Finding the right breeding stock.

This is really important.  Starting off with the right foundation stock will make all the difference in your new adventure.  Purebred stock is always a better choice.  This will assure you the ability to reproduce like rabbits, with proper weight gain, growth rate, feed conversion, and in general,  consistancy in your stock.   This will also make your rabbits more attractive to others if you intend on selling rabbits.  All other rabbits are considered crossbreds-mixed bloodlines-no papers.  I have found very good "crossbreds" for personal meat purposes-however, keep in mind that your taking a big chance that they will have small litters-poor feed conversion ratios-slower growth rate-larger bones and there is no way of knowing what the kits will look like.  Unlike many rabbit raisers--I'm not against the crossbreds--you just have to understand what you getting into.  They carry very low value in the grand scheme of things---you decide.

3.  Decide on housing and equipment.

Right up front you should decide on what size of a rabbitry you want.  How many rabbits will accomplish your goals in the long run.  It is always a good idea to start small and grow into your rabbitry.  A good starting number is three or four.  Two does and a buck or even better  two junior bucks a junior doe and a senior bred doe.  This will allow you to learn what your doing and still get "started" with breeding and raising babies.  That being said on to housing and cages.....this is where you can spend alot of money if your not careful.  We build our own cages here.  All wire hutches.  I believe this is the most sanitary way of raising rabbits.  They are easy to build and easy to clean.  The right housing and equipment is just as important to your success as the right breeding stock.  Wooden hutches are just not a good idea.  They are hard to keep sanitary and often cause you to deal with health issues you could easily avoid by using an all wire hutch.  I would strongly advise using the wire only hutches.  If your rabbitry is indoors then the cages are fine the way they are.  If you are planning on raising outdoors you will need to build a shelter from the weather to hold your wire cages.  I will go into this topic further next week.  As far as equipment goes there are many types of feeders and waterers that I have found as suffecient.  Keep in mind cleanliness is the key.  Make them something that is easily maintained.  There are several plans online for self waterers that are made od PVC pipe and 2-liter bottles--rabbits need lots of fresh clean water.  If you plan ahead at this point for the 'future rabbitry' size you will be so much ahead.  The thing to remember with raising rabbits is it can grow very rapidly---plan ahead. 

4.  Feeding your rabbits-plan ahead

Before you even bring home your breeding stock you should have your housing, equipment, and feed on hand.  Welcome home your new stock with a well thought out plan.  Have your pellets purchased and stored properly (mice love them).  I also feed my rabbits a handful of alfalfa daily.  Thats all I feed-pellets-alfalfa-and lots of fresh water.  I keep a mineral wheel (available at most farm stores) in each cage.  I do not feed my rabbits scraps or greens.  Consistancy in their diet will greatly aid you in avoiding illness.  Try to always feed your rabbits at the same time everyday.  Get a routine for care and management and both you and the rabbits will be happier. 

I hope this has been helpful.  Please join me next week when we will discuss hutches and housing further.  I strongly advise everyone who is starting with rabbits to read as much as possible on the subject.  Get a good guide book of your own.  Bob Bennett has several good books on the subject. Even after all this time I still go back to the book for reference.  There is no one right way to raise rabbits.  As you get into it you will find what works best for you.  Getting started is the hardest part...but with a little preperation the rest of raising rabbits will be a joyful and rewarding experience.  Have I said...I love raising rabbits!  Blessings>faithfarm

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

Hello, this is faithfarm, I've been invited to guest blog for a while about raising rabbits.  So I thought for the next few weeks I would cover topics ranging from why we raise rabbits, building cages, to breeding.  Please join me here each Tuesday at  Homestead Barnyard as we explore this exciting and fun animal to raise on any homestead.  You can also visit me at  www.homesteadblogger.com/faithfarm/ .

When we started our homestead one of the first topics of discussion was what animals we would raise here on the farm.  We were looking for animals that would help us become more self-sustained and were easy to raise as we had very little experience with "farming".  One of the first animals to arrive was a breeding trio of meat rabbits.  Here are some of the facts that helped us to decide:

1.  Cholesterol level in rabbit meat is much lower than chicken, lamb, beef, pork.  Chicken=220 (mg/100g);  Lamb= 250 (mg/100g); Beef= 230 (mg/100g); Pork=230(mg/100g); Rabbit=164(mg/100g)

2.  Rabbit is lower in % of fat than chicken, turkey, beef, and pork.

3.  Rabbit is highest in protein%.

4.  A doe rabbit that weighs 10 pounds can produce 320 pounds of meat in a year.  Now tell me that isn't amazing!

5.  Rabbits will produce 6 pounds of meat on the same feed and water as a cow will produce 1 pound of meat on the same feed and water with much less space requirements.

6.  Rabbits are among the most productive of domestic livestock.

7.  Rabbits make great fertilizer!  (cold manure-ready to use)

2.20% Nitrogen

.87% Phosphorus

2.30% Potassium

.36% Sulfur

1.26% Calcium

.40% Magnesium

8.  Initial startup cost is minimum.

9.  Space requirements to raise rabbits is very small compaired to other livestock.

10.  Easy!  Anyone can do it.  All you need is a good guide book and a little 'want-to'.

These are the main reasons we started our rabbit adventure.  Over the last few years I have come up with many more reasons why to continue raising rabbits.  Mainly-I love it.  They are so easy and bring me so much joy.  Also I have come to appreciate the fact that I can raise healthy meat at a fraction of the cost.  I know what I am feeding my family.  Providing the best for them makes me feel good.  I can take comfort in knowing that I have a source of meat right here on the farm all the time.                                 

There are many reasons to raise rabbits, I.E.  profit, wool, showing, to meat, but raising meat rabbits is what we do here.  I hope you enjoyed this article and will join me next week to discuss "Getting Started".  Blessings>faithfarm

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

ACV = This refers to Apple Cider Vinegar, which is used by many of us
to promote health, prevent worms and other parasites.  The ACV that we
use is organic and unpastuerized; it has the "mother of vinegar" at the
bottom of the bottle, which looks like sediment.  Most of us use a "glug"
or 2 per gallon of water (1 or 2 tablespoons).  Many of us also use a
peeled garlic clove in the water, too, also for good health.

( Caution, do not put ACV  in metal or Galvanized waterers.)

DE = Diatomaceous Earth.  Human grade, only!  Do NOT use the "pool grade"
or other grades, which may contain heavy metals and be toxic.  This powder
is sometimes added to the dust bath if chickens are kept inside, added to
the feed by some flock owners in order to prevent worms, and others have
had good results by dusting the birds with DE if the flock becomes
infested with lice.  However, using ACV and garlic in the water seems to
prevent lice, so using a dust of DE be sure to wear dust masks when
using it!) is for active infestations.

Garlic = Garlic is able to cure a number of ailments, and is generally
hailed as excellent for its beneficial and medicinal properties.  Often
used as a vermifuge, it also is used as a general all-purpose preventative.
See above for using it in the chickens' water.


Keeping odor down = Chicken tractors (aka portable, bottomless pens) are
an excellent way to keep chickens in an odor free manner on the farm or in
the backyard.  Daily moving of the pen prevents manure build-up, which is
the cause of odor problems, while fertilizing and de-bugging the ground it
sits on for a day.  Do a search on google for "chicken tractors" or
"portable chicken pens" to find examples of many different versions that
you can buy or build.

If you are unable to use a portable pen, add carbon (dried leaves, etc) to
the hen house and its run.  Straw or hay is also useful in this manner.
The chickens will stir up the mix, and you just keep adding more, making
a very nice compost for yourself in the process.

Grandma Rosie 

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

This can be a controversial issue among backyard flock enthusiast, whether or not to vaccinate your chickens.  The whole point for us to keep chickens and get eggs, is for them to be vaccination and antibiotic free.  We have chosen to go the route of unmedicated chickens and feed.  We did get an eye infection before they were laying, and gave them an antibiotic for that.  However, since laying we are strictly unmedicated.   If our chickens were to get another infection we would probably quarantine that chicken off from the flock.  Here is a great site to chicken diseases: http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/disviral.htm

If you are going to choose to vaccinate your chickens against these diseases here is a schedule for vaccination:

Disease Prevention Program Disease Vaccination Schedule

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

We have 3 nesting boxes for 10 hens and it seems like they all use the same box.LOL

My ideal chicken set up would be a chicken coop in the middle of two very large chicken runs. I would rotate the runs that they would use from year to year. I would have the chickens on one side and a garden on the other. I would rotate this situation yearly. That way they could cleanup my garden area, as well as fertilize my soil. This would be the ideal use of chickens!

Here are some great sites for chicken coop pictures:

http://backyardchickens.com/ (and all time favorite, check out that poulet chalet)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Backyard-Chicken-Coop/

http://www.rosecomb.com/random/coops/coops.

htmlhttp://www.mypetchicken.com/  

Blessings,

This is just a starter. The web has every type of chicken condo you could imagine.

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

Most of us raising chickens these days probably got started by ordering chicks from one of the big hatcheries. I know I did. This is a great way to start and offers the most variety for the dollar. It also gives new poultry lovers a chance to try out different breeds of poultry. But there are alternatives to these large hatcheries: small poultry breeders.

Believe it or not, there are thousands of folks around the world who have chosen to breed certain varieties of chickens. They do this for many reasons: the love of a breed, the desire to develop certain characteristics, or to be independent.

There are advantages to using a local poultry breeder:

1. You can form a personal working relationship with the breeder.
2. You can get a look at the adult chickens before you buy eggs or chicks.
3. You get better quality birds that are closer in conformation to the breed standard.
4. A breeder focuses on quality characteristics rather than quantity of birds.
5. You are supporting a small farmer and a local economy.
6. You get expertise on chickens and the specific breed.
7. You are supporting a more diverse gene pool.

Some breeders hatch and sell chicks. Others just sell breeding quality eggs. You would need an incubator for the latter. Incubators can be had for $50 to $100 from many online poultry & farm stores. This cost is quickly recouped (no pun intended) with the savings on shipping of chicks. Or you can build your own incubator.

A Belgian Bearded D'uccle (definitely NOT breeder quality)

Now these small breeders can be hard to find so you may have to do a bit of searching. You also need have an idea which breed of chicken you are interested in raising. To find a small poultry breeder, check with your county agricultural extension agent for breeders in your area. Or search these online resources:

• The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy. Ask for a list of poultry breeders.
• Feathersite has a Breed Club listing.
• Yahoo Groups poultry discussion boards. Often you can find specialty poultry breeders through these boards.

Kristin Hoffman homesteads with her family in the hills of East Tennessee and blogs about alternative energy, family farming, and home schooling with her husband at www.solarfamilyfarm.com. She can also be found chasing chickens out of her garden.

Posted in Homestead Barnyard

Like many homesteaders, we try hard to provide good nutrition for our animals while avoiding many of the objectionable additives in modern feeds. These include antibiotics, industrial agriculture by-products, and genetically modified organisms. This can be nearly impossible, however, depending on where you live and your budget. Rather than drive ourselves crazy, we do the best we can.

We ordered a new batch of chicks this past fall that included 26 new laying hens (New Hampshire Reds) and 32 meat birds (Cornish X Rocks). With this batch of chicks, we decided to try some new feeds to see how they would grow.

First, I started making what I call “Chick Cornbread”. Here is my recipe:

• 1 cup buttermilk, soured milk, or skim milk
• 2 eggs
• 1/3 cup split peas
• 1/3 cup whole corn
• 1/3 cup whole wheat
• 1/3 cup whole oats
• 1 t salt
• 1 T kelp meal
• 2 T alfalfa pellets
• 1 T dried nettles
• 1 T brewer’s yeast
• 2 T oil or melted lard
• 1 t baking powder

Using Sue Gregg’s Blender Batter method, I whirred this up in my trusty Osterizer. Then I poured it into a greased 8x8” pan and baked it at 350^OF for 35 minutes. When cool, I crumbled the cornbread and fed this to the chicks several times per day. The first couple of days, one batch was enough. By the end of 2 weeks, 50 plus chicks were eating 4 batches a day.

While this recipe is not “scientific”, I did try and include a variety of grains and legumes, and eggs & milk products, for balanced nutrition, including high protein. The kelp, alfalfa, and nettles provide “green matter” for vitamins & minerals.

In addition to the corn bread, I fed them 1/4-1/2 lb of beef liver each day. The liver was first pureed, and then sprinkled with Brewer’s Yeast. The liver and yeast provide high protein and lots of B vitamins needed by growing chicks.

By the 3^rd day, I began feeding clabber, also known as soured skimmed milk. This provided the chicks with additional protein, B vitamins (riboflavin in particular), and probiotics. When raw milk is soured naturally it is “cultured” just like yogurt and provides the chicks with lots of good bacteria for their digestive systems which helps prevent coccidiosis and other diseases. Cultured buttermilk from the store is a good substitute.

Chicks eating clabber.

Starting in the 2^nd week, we began feeding the chicks scratch grains and phasing in Layena Start & Grow. (I am not wild about Layena as it is a processed product with few details on the label, but it is what I can get locally.) The liver was phased out by the end of the 3^rd week.

At this time, all the chicks were relocated to a movable pen on our (scanty, drought-ravaged) pasture. They ranged beautifully and continued to thrive.

The chicks were switched to scratch grains & clabber after the 6^th week.

The results: The Cornish X Rocks dressed out at 4+ lbs (roosters at 8.5 weeks) and 5+ lbs (hens at 10.5 weeks) And they are delicious! The New Hampshire pullets have grown and should begin laying in a month or so.

We lost one Cornish X Rock chick the first day to curly toe syndrome (a lack of B-vitamins) before I added the liver. We also lost 6 or 7 of the Cornish x Rock chicks due to unusually high temperatures in October (it was over 90 degrees!).

Again, while this is not scientific, it worked well for us! Do a little research and experiment a bit! As with feeding our children, using a few basic principles you can feed your chicks well with whole, natural foods!

Here are some great resources to help you feed your chickens:

• Morrison’s Feeds & Feeding - this is old but a great resource for all animals, check used book stores
• Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens by Gail Damerow
• The Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery
• Chicken Feed: The World of Chickens on the web at http://www.lionsgrip.com/chickens.html

Kristin Hoffman homesteads with her family in the hills of East Tennessee and blogs about alternative energy, family farming, and home schooling with her husband at www.solarfamilyfarm.com. She can also be found each day searching  the coop and barn for chicken fruit.