Posted in Quilting

Marking the Quilt Top

 

The ideal marking tool is one that easily leaves a sharp, easily-seen line that stays as long as you need it, doesn’t stain or damage the thread or fabric, and then disappears completely when you are finished with it.  Generally, we end up compromising.

 

It is usually easier to mark the quilting designs before you layer and baste the quilt. It helps to work on a hard, non-slippery surface. Stabilize the fabric with pins or tape if it helps. 

 

The design can be transferred by placing paper with the quilt design behind the quilt and tracing through the fabric, perhaps with the aid of a light box, but it is frequently easier to use tracing paper or other transfer methods from the top side of the quilt.

 

Marking Tools

 

Standard #2 pencil

Keep the point sharp to keep the line very fine, because it doesn’t remove well. It may smudge and cause the thread to get gray-looking.

 

Mechanical lead pencil

Use a thin (0.5 mm) lead, preferably a B (medium) or HB (medium hard). The line stays finer but may still be hard to remove.

 

Silver pencil

Shows on most fabrics. Keep it sharp. Won’t smear or rub off on the thread.

 

Air-erase and Water-soluble markers

These are the easiest to work with, but they require caution and careful handling. There are several colors, and they work well with stencils. The air-erase or “disappearing ink” markers will usually disappear before you are done quilting. The water-soluble markers will last until you remove them. Hopefully, they will then disappear.

 

You must follow certain rules, or they will set permanently or reappear later, perhaps even damaging the fiber of the fabric. Once you have applied the marker, you cannot iron the fabric. Keep the marked project out of hot places and try to wash it out as soon as possible. This is a poor choice if you expect to spend a year or more quilting your project.

 

As you finish quilting an area, use a very wet towel to blot away the marks. When your quilt is finished, wash it in a big, front-loading machine with COLD WATER ONLY – NO SOAP—on the gentle cycle. Do it twice. (Then you can use soap if you must.) A wallhanging or small quilt can be soaked in a tub with plenty of cold water. Change the water and do it again. Allow to air dry. You can tumble it dry if you are sure all of the marker is gone.

 

Colored pencils designed for use with fabrics

Usually these work well because they are free of oils. They may be chalk or lead pencils. Regular color pencils must be tested before use. Some chalk pencils have oil in them, and they will not remove easily, so be sure that any chalk pencils you use are intended for fabric and designed to be removable.

 

Washable graphite pencil

I haven’t used this. It must be frequently sharpened, because it is quite soft, and it smears, but it is completely removable by washing.

 

Soapstone pencil

This shows on dark fabric and removes easily and completely, but you must sharpen it frequently and it does tend to wear off before you’re finished with it.

 

Tailors chalk and other chalk dispensers

Usually comes out if it is intended for this purpose, but it rubs off quickly while you’re still quilting.

 

Soap slivers

If you can keep it sharp, it shows up well on dark fabrics and washes out easily

 

Artists’ and Dressmakers’ Tracing Paper

Wax-free and oil-free tracing paper works very well and should remove completely if you don’t iron over it. Saralâ is a good, reliable brand.

 

Catherine Timmons lives in southern Wisconsin with her husband and sons. She has been teaching quiltmaking classes and workshops for 13 years. Her website, www.gloryquilts.com, offers information and articles for those interested in quilting or hosting a quilt retreat. She also blogs at www.homesteadblogger.com/gloryquilts .